All About the Chinese Qipao Dress

The Chinese Qipao dress is a staple of modern Chinese fashion. However, the origin and history of the Qipao are shrouded in mystery and many myths.

Qipao or Cheongsam?

The Chinese Qipao is sometimes also called Cheongsam, but the former is more commonly used in French. The term Cheongsam is actually an English word: a romanization of the Cantonese word 衫, Chèuhngsam. This word is commonly used to describe this fitted Chinese dress that is particularly popular in Shanghai. In the Shanghai Chinese dialect, the term zansae is commonly used to describe the same dress.

Qípáo, on the other hand, is a Mandarin word. The usage of these two terms can therefore vary depending on the location. In Hong Kong, for example, the term Cheongsam or Chèuhngsam is now used as a mixed term referring to both genders and can therefore refer to both men's and women's traditional clothing! In China, the Qipao exclusively refers to the female version clothing. In Western countries, the terms Cheongsam and Qipao also refer only to women's clothing.

The History of Chinese Qipao Dress

Historical context

The history of the Qipao began during the Qing Dynasty, the last imperial dynasty of China, which ruled from 1636 to 1911. It was during this time that the Manchu people ruled China. Manchus used an administrative system called the Eight Banners which was established by the leader Nurhachi, who ruled between 1559 and 1626. Under this system, the Manchu people wore different clothing from other peoples, especially the Han and the oppressed Mongols.

The Manchu people wore long robes called changpao (袍) for both men and women, although the term qipao was also commonly used to describe the dress worn by Manchu women. In 1936, a dynastic law required all Han Chinese to adopt the changpao and Manchu hairstyle in place of the Han Chinese traditions. Later, the law was lifted, and only Han Chinese who were scholars or officials were required to use the changpao. Over time, Han civilian men voluntarily adopted the changpao.

The Modern Qipao

It is worth noting that the original qipao worn by women during the Qing Dynasty did not resemble the one we know today. This qipao was quite loose-fitting, with lots of draping, and this very ample covered a large part of the body, except the toes, hands and head.

While the Qipao has been around for a long time, the look we know today was introduced and popularized between the 1920s and 1940s in Shanghai. The cheongsam was later modernized and worn by celebrities and upper-class women in Shanghai.

Among the reasons for the dazzling success of this dress in China as well as in the West, it should be noted that we cannot separate the history of the modern qipao from that of Mrs Wellington Koo, the former first lady of China who was also voted by Vogue as one of the best-dressed women in 1942 on multiple occasions. Madame Wellington Koo was famous for her modernized adaptation of the Cheongsam. At the time, Cheongsam dresses were ankle-length, and Madame Wellington Koo cut hers to the knee. She also insisted on using only fine Chinese silk.

When the communist government ruled China in 1949, the qipao became less popular in China, as the communists tried to push for modernization and erase traditional Chinese values, including fashion. Many people fled to Hong Kong, where the Qipao remained popular until the 1950s.

Transformation of Qipao

As mentioned above, the original "Qipao" from the Qing Dynasty (Manchu rule) era was rather loose, with a relatively straight skirt pattern compared to what we have today and a higher neckline. At the time, it covered almost the entire body of the woman, except for a small part of the toes, both hands and the head. Intricate embroidery was also a very important feature of the Cheongsam pattern (it still is today but to a lesser extent).

In the 1920s, the Cheongsam was worn with trousers, for both men and women. However, with Western fashion during the 1930s in Hong Kong, stockings slowly but surely replaced trousers, and side slits became higher and reached above the knees or sometimes even the upper thighs.

In the 1940s, high-heeled shoes were also introduced to Shanghai and quickly became a new fashion trend, and since then, they have often been associated with the qipao. As Chinese fashion was modernizing at a rapid pace, women quickly had to abandon their stockings and wear the Cheongsam with bare legs.

Western fashions have evolved over the years and have also influenced the transformation of the Qipao design to include more accentuation, high-necked sleeveless designs and bell-shaped sleeves. By the 1940s, the modern Qipao design had mostly "matured" into the form we know today, and featured a wide variety of fabrics and patterns, as well as various accessories. Today, the qipao can be a short dress like a mid-length dress, in lace or embroidered, there is something for everyone.

When should you wear a Cheongsam?

During the Qing Dynasty in the 17th century, Chinese women wore a qipao almost every day for all occasions, and the qipao was also worn quite often as casual wear in the 1920s in Shanghai and in the 1950s-1960s in Hong Kong.

Today, in China and other countries with a Chinese tradition, the qipao is not generally worn as an everyday dress, but remains a common garment for formal occasions, celebrations, or the following events:

• Weddings : The Qipao is a common choice for Chinese weddings or even Western weddings when a bride is of Chinese descent or is marrying into a Chinese family. As a guest, wearing a Qipao to attend the wedding is also considered appropriate.
• School uniform : The Qipao is used as the official school uniform in some primary and secondary schools in Hong Kong, mainly in older Christian and Catholic schools.
• Work clothes : Cheongsam is used as a uniform in many restaurants and hotels, and is also a common choice of flight attendant and ground staff uniform for airlines in mainland China, Taiwan, and countries with Chinese influence such as Singapore.
• Chinese New Year : Qipao is a common garment to wear during Chinese New Year or other traditional chinese festivals.
• International fashion : Many fashion designers, including Western ones, have adopted the qipao and its elements in their collections. In addition, many Hollywood films have featured it, including by non-Chinese actors such as Anne Hathaway, Elizabeth Taylor and Nicole Kidman, among others.
• As a Chinese national clothing : The qipao is often used to represent China in official settings such as politics, sports (e.g., medalists at the 2008 Summer Olympics), and other diplomatic occasions.

How to wear a modern Qipao?

Here are some helpful tips before investing in a beautiful Cheongsam:

• Thinner collars can help to lengthen your neck, while higher collars can shorten it. The collar is usually 6 cm high, but there are shorter collars of 3 cm or less.
• You can also accessorize your outfit with a feminist bag for your girl power look!
• You can always opt for a sleeveless version if you want your arms to appear longer and slimmer.
• There are many possibilities for choosing fabrics. As a general rule, you should choose a fabric that fits your body well without forming wrinkles, such as silk, artificial silk, cotton or polyester.
• If you have wide hips and are rather uncomfortable with tight skirts, you can always opt for qipaos in a version skater dress, whose skirt will be more flared.