L'art de la broderie chinoise

Chinese embroidery art

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Chinese embroidery is one of the many Chinese traditional crafts. You don't necessarily suspect when you see it, and yet it has a very long story behind it. In Antiquity, Chinese women was to learn the technique of embroidery from an early age, so that it could take care of the home.

The embroidery was first developed by women to decorate their clothes, their costumes, their pockets and their bedding. These ladies were very inspired, especially by the nature surrounded by them, and the themes of traditional Chinese embroidery were mainly the flowers and birds. With its reasons rich in life and full of colors, it has gradually developed to become a real national art ! But the history of silk is far from stopping at the homes of Chinese families, because the important production of silk in China has favored the development of the art of embroidery and brocade worldwide, in addition to change theHistory of China !

Through this article, we will teach you more about this magnificent art than Chinese embroidery, and in particular on its very old history and the different Chinese embroidery schools.

The story of Chinese embroidery

THE silkworm were domesticated 5000 years ago in China! There silk, in the form of textiles and embroidery, was the main product transported along the old Chinese silk road. As small as they are, so silkworms have contributed to writing the history of the world!

The production of silk and tissue wires has given birth to The art of embroidery. Embroidery already existed before the invention of silk, but in a more primitive form, and it was usually worked on tissues of wool, flax and hemp, from the Neolithic. So we realize it, the fabric is made its way in Chinese history. Besides, the most old fabric Found in China available to the Shang dynasty (618-907)!

It was only later, with the development of the national economy, that embroidery entered the lives of ordinary people. Thanks to the progress of the Zhou dynasty, the Han dynasty saw a leap forward in embroidery, both in terms of technical what artistic style. The drawings covered a wide range of subjects: the sun, the moon, the stars, the mountains, the flowers, the grass, the clouds, the tigers, the dragons, the phoenix and geometric patterns, also words .

At that time, the embroidery symbolized the social status, and was reserved for the high spheres of the company. Embroidery products of high quality were therefore intended for noble needs such as the tapestry. People of the People could not afford superior quality embroidery products, so they could have little embroidery to decorate their daily clothes, as it was considered a ceremonial of luxury.

Chinese embroidery fabric

Tang dynasty (618-907)

Later, during the Tang dynasty (618-906), the Buddhism Being booming, embroidery has been widely used to pay tribute to Buddha. Buddhist portraits were popular at that time, and we then liked to use this noble art to pay tribute to the one we venerated.

The embroidery was rather intended for a daily use And decorative And the chain point was then the main point method. But the cross points then popularized and the colors of the wires could be gradually changed. It made the embroidery patterns even more splendid and richer! Thanks to cross points, embroidery could freely develop and work their ideas in an artistic way, and this point therefore contributed to the development of the creativity of embroidery.

Song dynasty (960-1279)

Song embroidery (960-1279) was inspired by religious portraits Very fashionable, and has evolved towards portraits of personalities. It has reached summits both in terms of quality and quantity!  It then became an art form in its own right, often inspired by calligraphy and paint. This art carried by its popularity has enabled the development of new tools and skills, and prospered throughout China.

Song embroidery has therefore considerably improved several embroidery points, and in particular straight points. In addition, the lines and the colors used were completely revolutionized at that time. But it is not that in its appearance that Chinese embroidery has renewed itself at that time, because there are also many new tools that made their entry. This is particularly the case with Fine steel needles as well as much thinner silk threads. Embroidery therefore reached its creative, technical and economical prosperity during the Song dynasty. She then associated art, painting and calligraphy drawing inspiration from famous paintings.

During this period, the art of embroidery reached its peak. The vivid and detailed images were realistic. The embroidery was then divided into two functions: art for daily use and art for art.

Chinese embroidery Origin

Yuan dynasty (1280-1368)

The sovereigns of the Yuan dynasty have retained the use of embroidery for religious purposes, but this time turning to the lamaism which was then more in vogue. In addition to traditional clothing, embroidery was then used to decorate the Buddha statues and sutras and prayer flags.

Ming dynasty (1368-1644)

With the opening of trade among the Ming, crafts and many industries have prospered. Embroidery then became more accessible, because we were trying to sell more, and she then perfectly integrated popular culture! However, even in front more accessible and cheaper, she has continued to excel. The quality of the embroidery and the materials used on a daily basis has still improved! Under the Ming dynasty, the SKILLS Embroiderers were then put forward and appreciated, and real workers have been recognized for their art! The scope of art embroidery then extended to paper embroidery, needle embroidery, wire embroidery, metal silk embroidery, etc.

Qing dynasty (1644-1921)

The nation was peaceful and the economy was booming in the middle of the Qing dynasty. Qing embroidery has therefore stopped develop in a wide range embroidery and themes. The Qing dynasty therefore marked a turning point for the art of embroidery, which, while inheriting the tradition and keeping a know-how Impeccable, has modernized, drawing inspiration from new elements of Japanese embroidery and even Western art.

Chinese embroidery dress

Through all this story of many Chinese embroidery points, which we still use today in the West, have developed:

  • The knot point
  • The rod point
  • The cross stitch
  • The chain point
  • The backdo
  • The festoon point

The four Chinese embroidery schools

The adoption of different needle methods gave birth to different Chinese embroidery styles And to different technical schools during history. The four most famous Chinese embroidery styles are the SU embroidery of the province of Jiangsu, the Xiang embroidery of the province of Hunan, the Yue embroidery of the province of Guangdong and the Shu embroidery of the Sichuan province.

SUGE SU

SUB embroidery has a story over 2000 years old. Su is the abbreviated name of Suzhou. City of water typical in southern China. Suzhou and everything that follows from it reflects tranquility, refinement and elegance ... just like the embroidery of SU!

Favored by a privileged climate, Suzhou and its surroundings are conducive to the culture of silk. From the Song dynasty, the embroidery was already well known for its elegance and its finesse. Under the Ming dynasty, influenced by the Wu painting school, she began to compete with painting and calligraphy in her art. Su embroidery is known for its delicacy and its elegance. The drawing is generally very simple, the main theme being light. His seams are smooth, fine, regular, delicate and harmonious. The fine embroidery wire is divided into 48 strands at most, barely visible to the naked eye!

The art of embroidery is traditionally staged birds and flowers, scenes of nature and ancient Chinese paintings. During the different dynasties, the themes Suzhou embroidery developed to meet the tastes of the time. From the Tang dynasty (618-907 after J.-C.) to the Qing dynasty (1644-1912), birds such as peacocks, ducks and mythical phoenix were popular embroidery patterns. The flowers associated with butterflies, dragonflies and bees were also popular, just like Koïs, galloping horses and tigers. With growing contact with the West and its artistic styles, the SU embroidery have adopted many of these portrait and oil painting techniques. Today, it is not uncommon to see Suzhou embroidery of impressionist paintings, realistic portraits or contemporary oriental art. 

SU

Which also characterizes the embroidery of is the double -sided embroidery, where only one image can be seen on each side of a room or even different images on each side! Double face embroidery is the most complex and elaborate of all embroidery methods. We use a fine gauze or an almost transparent silk fabric and the artist must first plan the drawing and sewing techniques before starting a room. A real Chinese puzzle ! This is why the double -faced embroidery is undoubtedly the quintessence of the embroidery su as an art.

SU embroidery products were sent to participate in theUniversal exhibition In 1915. Since then, style has become more and more famous worldwide.

Xiang embroidery

Xiang's embroidery was initiated at the time of the CHU kingdom of states at war. It has become the main craftsmanship in the vicinity of Changsha, capital of the province of Hunan. Under the Qing dynasty, Xiang embroidery was developed from the methods of folk embroidery Hunan, but she also called on the skills of the SU embroidery and Yue embroidery. She has a story over 2000 years old.

Xiang products use embroidery colorful In bulk to embroider the embroidery pattern and the points are not as clear as those of other embroidery styles. The different colored threads are mixed with each other, which makes it possible to obtain a change of gradual color with a tone rich And harmonious. Xiang embroidery emphasizes realism, simplicity and grace, the living subject, the combination of virtual and real structure, and ingeniously integrates painting, poetry, calligraphy and traditional stone art Chinese.

The patterns of Xiang's embroidery come mainly from traditional Chinese paintings of landscapes, human figures, flowers, birds and animals. Always inspired by nature, the most common patterns of Xiang's embroidery are lions and tigers. Xiang embroidery is mainly made of pure silk, satin, transparent thread and various velvet colors. Its composition is rigorous and its color is lively.

Xiang’s embroidery won the best price at the Turin Universal Exhibition in Italy in 1912 and the first prize at the Panama Universal Exhibition in 1933. Xiang embroidery formed its own unique style in the long -term development process. His works have a great traditional artisanal value and a regional cultural and artistic value. It has become the "artistic card" of Hunan and even China!

Chinese embroidery style

Yue embroidery

Yue's embroidery was fully developed under the Tang dynasty. Ancient Chinese craftsmen used peacock feathers twisted together as a strand of embroidery to sew the ornamental patterns. It is therefore not for nothing that this type of embroidery is known for its extreme finesse! The patterns of Yue embroidery are rich and complex in their content, with bright colors and strong Decorative effects. Portrait, flowers and birds are the most popular themes because the subtropical climate promotes the region with an abundance of these plants that we rarely see in Central China. In addition, it uses rich colors for a strong contrast and a magnificent and animated effect.

Shu embroidery

Originally from Shu, the diminutive of Sichuan, Shu embroidery is characterized by a style refined And lively. It is largely influenced by its geographic environment and the local customs of Sichuan. The first traces of Shu embroidery date back to the western dynasty of Hans. At that time, embroidered products were a luxury that only the royal family enjoyed and which was strictly controlled by the government. During the Han dynasty and the three kingdoms, Shu embroidery had so much value that it was even exchanged for horses or used to adjust the debts!

Shu embroidery products are mainly found in Chengdu, the capital of the province of Sichuan. They are made with flexible satins and colorful threads. The different embroidery methods form a Unique local style. His know-how is remarkable, with more than 100 kinds of unique points! The patterns of Shu embroidery include flowers, birds, landscapes, fish, worms and human figures.

You now know everything about the world of embroidery! If you enjoyed this article, we invite you to discover more in depth the fascinating universe of Chinese embroidery by browsing our shop, where you will find many embroidered clothes with traditional Chinese know-how.

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